The Dress Dairy of a 15th C Shaube


 


 

Research and Inspiration


2004.07.04 Pattern drafting and cutting.

After a lot of drawing I finally settled for a pattern, which was drafted directly on the fabric and then cut. Now just some long nice seams to sew with waxed linen thread. Will probably take me a few evenings?!


2004.07.06 First try

Was reminded of the Tailor book of Enns again today on the German Renaissance list. I tend to forget it every so often. But of course I should have studied it before cutting, it probably would have made me rethink a few issues I have with the construction. It is mostly dealing with fashion a few decades later than what I aim for but is quite educating to study. Well, I believe I was not too far off the game, but still.. annoying to be so stupid!

After one envenings work most of the long seams are finnished (with unwaxed linen thread as I could not find my beewax...).

A first try out of the Schaube could be done (sleeves are just pinned together and pinned in place on shoulder). Overall I think the cut is OK. Of course it more fullnees would not be bad, but then again the thin with fabric limitation... I do however have a 20 cm wide strip left that could be used to insert in centre back, to achieve more fullness to the pleats. I think I will do that, cut along the gore in the back and add this strip in the centre.

Then I just have to decide if I want slits in the arms, to be able to use it as a schaube with hanging sleeves. Further, I also need to decide on what kind of collar I want... Been thinking of lining the collar and front edge (maybe also sleeve cuffs?) with white wool, until I someday maybe will find some white soft fur. Will not line the wholte Schaube, as it is thick and heavy enough as it is. I don't think I will ever have to be cold during winter events anymore!!!

And finally today, a lovely picture of my darling sweetheart! My dear cat Ronia (does every costumer ave one?). As most cats do, he loves curling up on my heaps of fabrics and clothes.


2004.08.09 Completed!

Never managed to finnish the diary before camping. However, did manage to finnish the schaube! Although the week turned out to be the warmest yet this summer and a warm wool schaube was unthinkable during the day, it was heaven for nightly chill. I loved waering it and think it turned out really well.

Am not completely satisfied with the collar, it sort of turns a bit in a way that is annoying. I believe the bottom layer is a tiny bit too big and I might have to fix that. Other than that it is perfect. I have not yet had time to take any pictures of any details, hopefully there will be some coming up soon.

While announcing this dairy as completed and move it too the Costume Gallery, I post above a few pictures of me wearing the schaube with my yellow Dürer dress!


2004.08.10 A few more details...

Before sewing on the sleeves to the schaube I decided to give dyeing one more chance. I threw everything into the washingmachine at 60C with two packets of NITOR black all purpose dye. And finally!!! Out came a blue colour I could live with!

 

The collar, front edge and sleeve edges were lined with a dark grey wool felt. Four small pleats were also sewn and held into place at the centre back, with the collar hanging losely above them.

 

Seam allowances where whip stiched into place.


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Myra ©2004